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Le meuble « O »

Fais-moi un meuble O

Le quid de partir d’arbre tout droit et terminer en cercle… Je vais vous dévoiler un des secrets d’ébéniste.

Il vous faut d’abord une essence de bois flexible enfin, assez flexible. Elles le sont plus ou moins toutes mais avec certaines ça ne marche pas du tout . Les clients m’ont dit du frêne et j’ai dit oui.

 Puis il faut de la longueur pour faire tout le périmètre du cercle. Heureusement j’ai pu récupérer tous les derniers plateaux de frêne à la scierie de la roche les Arnauds et ils sont assez long pour faire le périmètre du cercle.

 A partir de plateaux, sorte de tranche de tronc brut il est alors nécessaire d’en sortir de fines lamelles de 4,5mm d’épaisseur. C’est à ce moment qu’on se rend compte que l’atelier n’est pas si grand. Manier et découper des plateaux de 4,70m de long sans cogner dans les machines voisines c’est compliqué. Quelques centimètres de plus cela aurait été très compliqué.

 Une fois les lamelles de frêne réalisées, vient le moment de la création d’un gabarit. Le guide unique indispensable pour mener à bien l’étape suivante.  J’ai donc dessiné la vue de face du meuble à l’échelle 1 sur deux planches de contre plaqué assemblées ensemble. Une fois le dessin terminé il faut fabriquer des cales pour maintenir les lamelles en place. Des cales disposées et vissées tout le long du cercle permettront de maintenir les fines lamelles encollées les unes aux autres. J’en arrive à l’étape fatidique du collage du cercle. Rapidité,précision et zenitude sont nécessaire. J’encolle donc les lamelles : une couche de colle, une couche de lamelle, une couche de colle…. Ensuite après l’encollage des 11 lamelles de 4700mm x 40mm x 4,5mm je maintiens et serre le tout dans les cales. Il s’agit de contraindre les 11 lamelles dans le gabarit en cercle puis bloquer. J’ai alors testé deux techniques. La première fermer des cales en U par une planchette de bois vissée pratique quand on n’a pas suffisamment de serre-joints (environ 100). Seconde solution les serres joints.Depuis j’ai investit dans 100 serres joints…oui vous m’avez bien compris100 ! Mais avant de détenir ces 100 serre-joints j’ai pu compter sur les collègues voisins ! merci !!

Le temps de collage était de 2h30 environ, heureusement que j’avais mis BEAUCOUP de colle pour pas qu’elle prenne trop vite. Une fois encollage je laisse sécher environ 12h le temps que la colle prenne bien entre toutes les lamelles de bois.

 Les plateaux restants passent à la dégauchisseuse et à la raboteuse pour obtenir l’épaisseur des futures parties du meuble, les étagères, le tiroir,le socle etc.

 En menuiserie et ébénisterie un morceau de bois ne peut être plus large que 21/23cm d’un seul et même morceau car le bois risque de tuiler,il faut alors couper ces morceaux de bois puis les recoller ensemble en inversant le fil du bois pour éviter un maximum de déformations.

 Une fois cette étape faite il faut poncer le tout car il y à toujours un petit désaffleure pendant un collage, une fois le désaffleure enlever il faut recouper les planches en longueur et en largeur pour obtenir les planches aux dimensions finies pour pouvoir faire les assemblages et le chanfrein sur les étagères.

Le système d’assemblage sur ce meuble, fut des assemblages à lamello (des petits bouts de bois ressemblants à des calissons), il faut faire des entailles dans les planches à assembler puis venir coller le lamello et les planches ensemble et serrer le tout avec des serre-joints.

 Pour le collage j’ai dans un premier temps crée les cercles dans lesquels j’ai fait des entailles pour accueillir les étagères et le socle que j’ai assemblés ensemble. Puis j’ai assemblé et collé étage par étage pour faciliter le travail, entre chaque collage il fallait attendre 1h30 le temps que la colle sèche avant de coller l’étage du dessus, et je répète l’opération pour tous les étages de ce meuble.

Une fois que le meuble est collé, j’enlève les traces de colle puis ponce le tout au grain 80 puis au 120 et au 240. Une fois cette étape finie je passe la teinte que le client a demandée (noir), une fois la teinte passée il faut attendre qu’elle sèche environ 1h30 puis égrainer le tout au papier de verre 400 pour enlever les fibres du bois qui se sont relevées avec l’humidité de la teinte. Une fois cette étape faite il faut appliquer la finition, sur ce meuble. J’ai choisi la cire qui vient protéger le bois et raviver ses couleurs. Une fois appliquée et relativement sèche il faut lustrer,c’est-à-dire frotter avec un chiffon de préférence en laine pour faire devenir la cire brillante.

 Voila après pleins de vérifications le meuble est fini après trois semaines de travail acharné, reste plus qu’à le livrer à Paris.

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